Grolleau, Ruché and Mayolet...

These three seemingly unrelated varieties of red wine reflect a new trend I noticed in cooler NYC wine bars and stores: digging into local, less known grapes, which are traditionally produced in small quantities, fermented without oak and not meant to be aged. All these wines, which I had in the last 3 months share certain general taste characteristics: floral nose (leaning toward rose with Le Cousin Grolleau and Luca Ferraris Ruché), light to medium body, spicy mouth with strawberry sweetness, black pepper finish and rejuvenating tartness. They are compotey, slightly cloudy, Ruché being the darkest in the group.

Le Cousin Grolleau 2007
90 points

Grolleau is an acidic, low alcohol Loire variety known mostly for Rose d'Anjou... grolle means "crow" and it refers to the deep black grape berries.

Luca Ferraris Ruché 2009
87 points

A tiny Piemontese DOC region around Asti: "Ruché di Castagnole Monferrato" is most likely a product of an 18 century import from Burgundy... Ruché is known for it's peppery-bitter aftertaste.

"Vin Des Seigneurs" Coenfer Mayolet 208
89 points

Mayolet is a naturally occurring hybrid of Petit Rouge and Cornalin. It is rare and indigenous to Vallee d'Aosta, where it grows at high elevations (about 900 to 1,000 meters). High minerality, white pepper and sweet, red fruit flavors.

All simply great... and all $20 and under in NYC. I found the Grolleau ($20) and Coenfer "Vin Des Seigneurs" Mayolet ($16) in LES September Wines, which is becoming my favorite wine store in the city. I would also include into this group the Verduno di Pelaverga I had in Bologna last summer... energetic, young but complex, refreshing. These are fantastic lighter fare pasta wines, including fish and seafood... I had Les Cousin recommended with oysters at 10 Bells and it worked really good.

Cantalupo "Il Mimo" Rosato 2009

Rosé Nebbiolo from Piemonte Colline Novaresi: a girly man drink! Just kidding; this wine is quite substantial. Full body, saturated almost glowing crimson, beautiful legs. Watermelon and red fruit compote nose which slowly opens a distinctive note of eucalyptus. The mouth is no doubt fruity, but the fruit is well balanced by almondy bitterness, tannin and a good amount of acid. Mostly strawberry, cherry and apple. Very nice.

16$ at Blue Angel Wines, 79 points

TdB Barbera D'Alba, 2008

Another tasty barbera, another plate of pasta, over all a pretty satisfying dinner experience. The wine was fuller body than it should be considering the grape and the year... Purplish red, quite beautiful in a glass. A sweet cherry, clove and nutmeg nose, more cherry, tobacco and a sugar cane finish mouth. Solid, fun but not life changing. The bottle was purchased in a small liquor store in Ditmas Park, which should very seriously consider changing name... Or at least incorporate a zany advertising slogan, like: "S.T.D Wines&Liquors: Party Hard and See Your Doctor Later!"

$14 in retail, 73 points

Summer reds

Let me start by saying that I haven't posted for a long time but I am proud that this blog is a year old and the project has not been abandoned. I will also state for the record that I did not drink these four bottles by myself but rather with a group of friends while cooking and eating a meal. We ate potato gnocchi with shitake mushrooms, asparagus and fresh tomato.

Joseph Faireley Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2007

The Faireley family are in the business of buying plots of land in Burgundy that will produce optimal grapes. This wine comes from reserved plots located in the Côte de Nuits, Côte de Beaune and Côte Chalonnaise. Its a light ruby color with red fruit aromas and very well rounded taste. Its a perfect summer wine that can accompany any meal. It retails for around 20 dollars in the US.

Alba Rossa Salice Salentino Rosso 2008

This wine comes from Salento in the Puglia region located in the boot of Italy. It has a big flavor of fruits and at the same time it retains a very earthy background. This wine is 80% Negroamaro and 20% Malvasia Nera. The cost is around 12 dollars in the US.

Trinchero Barbera D'Asti Superiore 2003

The grapes for the production of this wine come from 20-year-old vineyards. The grapes are fermented in cement vat and then held in old wooden barrels for 12 months before being bottled. The taste is very fresh and fruity, and at the same time slightly sour. The cost of this wine is about 20 dollars.

Nibio Terre Rosse Monferrato Dolcetto 2006

This wine had a taste of mango which was a very cool surprise. It is a full bodied tannic wine with a fine bouquet and a velvety finish. It should be noted that its a biodynamic wine with no sulfites added. The makers say it is very well suited for aging. This particular variety has been grown in this region for more than 1000 years and it is referred to in the annals of the Republic of Genoa. The cost around 13 dollars in US, an excellent value wine.

La Bettola Barbera d'Alba, 2007

A mention worthy bottle of organic barbera from Piemonte, tasted (and then purchased) at a La Bettola horizontal tasting at Wine Garage in Krakow. This was far from your typical "house wine" barbera: pretty full body, chewy, particulate and garnet red... Tar, gravel and a touch of boiled bean on the nose; cherry and surprisingly long prune flavors on the mouth, with a great tart-lemony accent. This bottle was quite unique and much better than Barolo and Dolcetto from the same producer.

73 PZL (23 $), 87 points

Wine & Food, Bologna 2010

Divinis is definitely my favorite enoteca style establishment in Bologna. Right in the historic center of the city, this gourmet restaurant offers the real experience of northern Italian and French wines, matched with amazing food prepared by Maurizio Landi. This is NOT a tourist trap, unlike some places I visited in Florence and Milan...

I started my lunch with a glass of white, sparkling pinot nero from Piemonte produced by Bruno Giacosa. This blanc des noirs is quite big, mineral, aromatic, with persistent flavors of molasses, almond and herbs. (89 points) I also had home made strigoli pasta with stinging nettle, frog fish and lime peel: simply great.

To finish off the meal I asked for an interesting red with a cheese pairing. The red was truly exceptional: 2009 Verduno Pelaverga by Burlotto (one of the big Barolo producers from Piemonte). (90 points) Verduno is an endemic, pretty rare grape from Piemonte: spicy, dry and drinks young. My bottle had a very unique over all presence of black pepper, it dominated both nose and mouth. The fruit was minimal but very satisfying, dark berry and apple, beautiful garnet red, light body with nice viscosity. The cheese pairing was fresh Chabot, which was creamy, tart and fizzy inside...

Monfiorenza Monferrato Freisa 2008

Freisa: a less known casual red variety from Piemont.

An excellent spring choice: lighter body, purple-ish red, intense, acidic berry on the palette: gooseberry, red currant and a warm, sweeter raspberry finish. The nose is herbal, bit spicy. I would highly recommend this wine to pinot noir drinkers: it's got similar energy and sharpness. I imagine this variety must have a very hard time competing with nebbiolo, dolcetto and barbera... too bad, it's quite something. Organic, inexpensive and very tasty!

12$ retail, Uva Brooklyn, 78 points