The Tre Bicchieri wine tasting event in NYC

The NYC Gambero Rosso event was a true wine lover orgy: over 200 producers, barolos, amarones and brunellos poured generously, tables full of quality cheeses and fruit... A formidable vino extravaganza! Without a doubt a great strategy to educate New Yorkers about Italian wines... I tasted probably around 50 wines, mostly reds, obviously after first 10 my judging ability was seriously compromised:)

If I was to complain about anything, it would be the general, systemic overoaking of Italian reds... I guess this is the taste of the ruling class (chuckles), but i don't give a crap: if I wanna smell a wooden floor I stay home. And so I would like to mention a few memorable selections from ambitious, small and not so big producers that allow grapes be grapes.

My favorite red was a Sagrantino di Montefalco from an Umbrian micro producer Villa Mongalli: the 2006 and 2007 vintages, offered to distributors at $28, were the first (and last, to make sure it was really that good) wines I tasted... The real, deep dark chocolate and giant, gripping but fully under control tannis, along with cherry liquor, dark fruit, coffee, molasses and so much more, this traditionally produced wine is a gentle powerhouse. Ironically although aged in oak for 8 months, oakiness is just a minor background note in the palette... Equally interesting was Vigneto Fracia Valtellina Superiore red from Lombardian staple winemaker Nino Negri. Floral smelling, savoury tasting high-altitude nebiollo with fantastic, engaging dry fruit in the finish. So well done.

Amongst white selections I was totally seduced by this modest yet incredibly sophisticated/ complex Soave Il Casale 09' from Agostino Vicentini (Veneto). Mineral, vibrant with pear, apple and tropical fruit notes, drinking this wine is like watching a good movie... Finally the Colli de Luni Vermentino by Ligurian winemaker Lunae... a wonderful, energetic white with a floral nose and acacia honey, peach and almond mouth. Also delicious and full of rustic personality was their red blend Niccolo V.

I'd like to also mention two wines that perhaps I wouldn't drink daily but were great and stuck with me: a classic, austere and no nonsense Pio Cesare Barolo Ornato 2006, and cheesy/meaty/funky on the nose Codronchio Albana di Romagna 2008 by Fattoria Monticino Rosso, which was truly refreshing and striking in its balanced tartness.

It is also important to mention that the whole event was free after registration: right on!

Grolleau, Ruché and Mayolet...

These three seemingly unrelated varieties of red wine reflect a new trend I noticed in cooler NYC wine bars and stores: digging into local, less known grapes, which are traditionally produced in small quantities, fermented without oak and not meant to be aged. All these wines, which I had in the last 3 months share certain general taste characteristics: floral nose (leaning toward rose with Le Cousin Grolleau and Luca Ferraris Ruché), light to medium body, spicy mouth with strawberry sweetness, black pepper finish and rejuvenating tartness. They are compotey, slightly cloudy, Ruché being the darkest in the group.

Le Cousin Grolleau 2007
90 points

Grolleau is an acidic, low alcohol Loire variety known mostly for Rose d'Anjou... grolle means "crow" and it refers to the deep black grape berries.

Luca Ferraris Ruché 2009
87 points

A tiny Piemontese DOC region around Asti: "Ruché di Castagnole Monferrato" is most likely a product of an 18 century import from Burgundy... Ruché is known for it's peppery-bitter aftertaste.

"Vin Des Seigneurs" Coenfer Mayolet 208
89 points

Mayolet is a naturally occurring hybrid of Petit Rouge and Cornalin. It is rare and indigenous to Vallee d'Aosta, where it grows at high elevations (about 900 to 1,000 meters). High minerality, white pepper and sweet, red fruit flavors.

All simply great... and all $20 and under in NYC. I found the Grolleau ($20) and Coenfer "Vin Des Seigneurs" Mayolet ($16) in LES September Wines, which is becoming my favorite wine store in the city. I would also include into this group the Verduno di Pelaverga I had in Bologna last summer... energetic, young but complex, refreshing. These are fantastic lighter fare pasta wines, including fish and seafood... I had Les Cousin recommended with oysters at 10 Bells and it worked really good.